Is it bourgeois to like ‘good food?’ I went looking for answers

Amy Dawson grew up ashamed of the family ham.

It was pink and huge – close to 40lb – and sat on the kitchen counter, wrapped in newspaper throughout the winter. The ham had a hardened outside layer of dehydrated fat, which Dawson’s mom would cut into with a butcher’s knife, revealing a rich, ruby red inside. She would soak the meat she had sliced off and fry it up the next day for dinner, repeating those steps over the rest of the season.