The New York TimesThe New York Times

Noma, rated the world's best restaurant, is closing its doors

By Julia Moskin

09 Jan 2023 · 7 min read

Editor's Note

Noma has transformed fine dining over the past two decades. But as its creator tells the NYT, the Copenhagen restaurant's business model is no longer sustainable so he's decided to call it a day.

Since opening two decades ago, Noma — the Copenhagen, Denmark, restaurant currently serving grilled reindeer heart on a bed of fresh pine, and saffron ice cream in a beeswax bowl — has transformed fine dining. A new global class of gastro tourists schedules first-class flights and entire vacations around the privilege of paying at least $500 per person for its multicourse tasting menu.

Noma has repeatedly topped lists of the world’s best restaurants, and its creator, René Redzepi, has been hailed as his era’s most brilliant and influential chef.

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